There are more levers here than most buyers realize, and if you're only a few thousand short, one of them (or a combination) usually closes the gap. - Seller credit. On the right property you can negotiate a credit from the seller toward closing costs. Each loan type caps how large that credit can be, so we'll confirm the limit for your program. - Lender credit. Accept a rate above the lender's par (no-point) rate and the lender pays a credit toward your costs. As a rough illustration, about a half percent higher rate can generate a credit on the order of a couple percent of the loan amount. Reasonable if you expect a realistic shot at refinancing later, though nobody can promise rates cooperate. - Borrowing against something you own. Funds borrowed against an asset you own outright, a paid-off car for example, are an acceptable source for down payment and closing costs, because they represent a return of your own equity. The new loan payment counts in your debt-to-income. - What doesn't work: unsecured money. A personal loan, signature loan, or credit card advance can't be used for your down payment or closing costs, and its payment still counts against your DTI. And don't count on parking borrowed cash in your account for a while to get around that; lenders trace where large deposits came from. If money needs to move, talk to us first so it's done right. - Retirement. A 401(k) loan repaid to yourself over a set period can make sense here; a straight withdrawal usually isn't worth the taxes and penalties. - Earned savings. Income from a new second job won't count toward qualifying right away, but the money you actually save from it can go toward the gap. Also look at gift funds from family and down-payment-assistance programs (many have income limits). On the free Roadmap conversation we can map which of these fit your file.